Cut, or faceting, is one of the 4 famous “C”s when purchasing gemstones. Cutting, also know as Lapidary, is the process whereby a rough stone is turned into a gemstone. The usual method to fashion a gem is to cut the surface into a number of flat cuts known as facets. This gives the gem its final shape, or cut.
The gem cutter takes into account the stones best features, such as colour, clarity and weight in determining the best cut to show off the stones captivating beauty, brilliance and mystique.
There are number of “standard” cuts accepted in industry that are available to the cutter prior in determining the final look and feel of the gemstone. I will briefly discuss each, with a matching picture below.
Round Brilliant Cut
Taken from the Middle English word “rounden”, which means “secret”, The Round Brilliant cut is also known as the Round cut, American Ideal cut or American Standard cut, with 57 facets.
The Russian mathematical genius Marcel Tolkowsky determined, as a part of his PhD thesis in Mathematics, that the best cut height for a Round Brilliant is 58% that of the diameter of the Diamond. He further determined that 43% is for the pavilion, and 14% for the height of the crown. This 58% is probably the most crucial dimension of the gem.
This cut is optically the most efficient and boasts one of the best recoveries for well shaped Diamond and gemstone. It is designed to provide maximum brilliance and fire, making the gem sparkle and dance in the light.
Oval Cut
Taken from the Latin word “vum” meaning “egg”, the standard number of facets is 69.
It is an elliptical shape when viewed from the top.
The length to the width ratio should be approximately 2:1.
A well cut gemstone can be nearly as bright as a Round Brilliant cut.
The Oval cut is a particularly beautiful shape and if well proportioned gives great scintillation and fire.
Baguette Cut
Baguette is from the Italian word “bacchetta”, meaning “rod or stick”.
The approximate number of facets is 20.
Most oblong cuts are “step” cut. The facets on the pavilion have been cut in steps, parallel to the edges, in the manner of a pyramid with its top chopped off. The base and table are square with triangular facets.
Trilliant Cut
Trilliant cut is based on a triangular shape having 43 facets. Usually with truncated corners and displaying a variety of facet designs, this cut creates a spectacular wedge of brilliant fire.
As you look down through the gem, the culet generally appears centered in the middle of the table showing the pavilion of the gem with an attention to symmetry. The girdle and table facet are generally parallel.
Trilliants return lots of light and color due to their equilateral form. Variations include rounded-corner triangles, modified shield cuts and triangular step cuts.
Pear Cut
This is a hybrid cut, combining the best of the Oval and the Marquise, shaped like a sparkling teardrop with 71 facets.
A nice Pear cut is generally one that is well cut with a polished girdle.
Pear cuts should have a good depth such as 1.5:1 aspect ratio for a great look and a lively gem.
Octagon Cut
This is another “step” cut with the four corners metered and 53 facets. The facets run in steps parallel to the gemstone circumference.
This cut is differentiated from the Emerald cut by steps on the pavilion that are not equidistant.
Colour and clarity play very important role in the beauty of the gemstone. Color tends to show very dramatically in Octagon cut gemstones.
Emerald Cut.
The Emerald cut looks like a rectangle from the top, with truncated corners with 50 facets. These can be beautiful gemstones with stepped facets; the sheen tends to display large flashes of these stepped angles on the pavilion of the gem.
Emerald Cut is another “step cut” and it has rows of facets that resemble a staircase and usually are four-sided or elongated.
The Emerald cut is differentiated from the Octagon cut by its equidistant steps on the pavilion.
The length-to-width ratio should be 1.5:1 to 1.75:1.
With this cut, color plays a very important role in the beauty of the gemstone. Color tends to show very dramatically in Emerald cut gemstones.
Marquise Cut
The general ratio of length to width should be 2:1 with 57 facets. It is important that the Marquise cut gem not be too shallow or light will pass through the back of the gem diminishing its brilliance and color.
Marquise cut provides good brilliance and color.
It is gorgeous when used as a solitaire or when enhanced by smaller gems.
Antique Cushion Cut
Taken the Latin word “antquis”, meaning “classic”, Antique Cushion cut gemstone has 64 facets.
This shape is also sometimes referred to as the “Pillow” cut (for obvious reasons) or the “Candlelight” cut in reference to cuts designed prior to electric lights, when gems sparkled in the light provided by candles.
It has a marvelously romantic and classic look that stands out from other cuts.
Princess Cuts
The Princess cut, technically known as “Square Modified Brilliant” cut, is a square version of the Round Brilliant cut with 76 sparkling facets.
Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon.
It is a relatively new cut and often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings. Flattering to a hand with long fingers, it is often embellished with triangular stones at its sides. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the gem's depth in order to maximize brilliance.
Along with the Antique Cushion cut, the Princess cut maximizes a gem’s luster.
Heart Shape
The Heart Shape is a pear-shaped gemstone with a cleft at the top with total of 59 facets.
Length to width ratio is slightly over 1:1, approximately 1.1:1 in favor of length, but usually not over 1.2:1.
The heart is the ultimate symbol of love.
Most Heart Shape cut gems are nearly round. This has the advantage of having a nearly round pavilion that provides beautiful brilliance.
Cabochon Cut
Derived from the old Norman French word “caboche”, meaning head, this is a polished gemstone with a flat-bottom and a rounded domed top.
Cabochons, commonly known as Cabs, are the oldest and most common form of gem cutting. Gems cut “en Cabochon” are shaped and polished, rather than cut. In the earlier days this was the only cutting option available other than using the gem with the natural facets of their crystal structure.
Some of the most beautiful ancient jewelry was made with Cabochons.
